RUBY SINCLAIR
“I have so much respect for designers who can create with others in mind, but I fully design for myself, so girl of the earth definitely reflects my personal style! I always use the word effortless as I hate to look too done or trying-hard.”
— RUBY SINCLAIR, FOUNDER & DESIGNER OF GIRL OF THE EARTH
In our quest to always spotlight fellow designers and upcyclers, we were beyond thrilled Ruby, founder and designer of girl of the earth agreed to share her thoughts with us on her business model, love of vintage materials, and her advice on shopping sustainably! Sass, funk and nostalgia are a few of the moods baked into every piece in her line, styled with a youthful twist. Please enjoy our chat below…
1. When/why did you feel compelled to establish your own brand and how has your process evolved over time?
I grew up to nutty antique-dealer parents, so I've been exposed to vintage and secondhand since birth and would consider myself, in many ways, an expert. After graduating with a master's degree in entrepreneurship from London College of Fashion in 2017, I wanted to start an eco-friendly womenswear brand, but simultaneously was horrified by all the greenwashing happening in fashion especially with trendy 'sustainable' brands often pushing 'organic cotton' and other fabrics that are only minimally better than the norm. I was drawn to the idea of upcycling, where I wouldn't have to conduct research/trust dubious manufacturers/etc. to know that there's zero environmental impact in the garment I'm making. Probably somewhere at a flea market, I had the idea to create womenswear out of vintage fabric remnants, combining my newfound love of upcycling and my comfort zone of vintage.
2. I love how you explain your production practices in detail on your website. Why is it important to you to really spell out what steps you are taking to create zero waste products? How interested do you think your customers are to learn more about where and how their garments are made?
Sustainability has become an important aspect of manufacturing in the fashion industry but greenwashing has arrived alongside that. Because my pieces are truly zero-waste, it’s so important to communicate this and differentiate girl of the earth from the brands that are just greenwashing. Customers love the storytelling behind my pieces, including how each has zero impact on the environment, is locally made, and is what I like to call few-of-a-kind™ (on average we’re only able to cut 3 alike pieces from a vintage fabric remnant!). Eventually the average shopper will require this type of transparency to confirm that a piece is sustainable.
3. Your personality comes through in everything you create, but your selection of vintage prints you use to create your upcycled apparel pieces are especially evocative of your specific taste and personality. What is your favorite genre of prints to source and why? Also, are there any fibers/compositions you gravitate towards or stay away from?
I have so much respect for designers who can create with others in mind, but I fully design for myself, so girl of the earth definitely reflects my personal style! I always use the word effortless as I hate to look too done or trying-hard. Although many girl of the earth pieces have statement prints, they're meant to be the hero of the outfit, worn with solids or muted looks. I truly never know what I’m going to find while souring. My prints vary from a basic floral all the way to a super kitsch advertising print. They’re truly like nothing you can find today and that’s what makes them soooo special!
In terms of fibers/composition, I originally avoided polyester, until one day when I realised how many incredible 1970s nylons I was passing on. I found the perfect purpose for these (stretchy tube tops) and now they’re a girl of the earth staple. Otherwise, I do a lot of lightweight cottons for A-line mini skirts, fluid rayons for dresses with nice drape, slinky silks for backless tops, soft wools for our cult-fav shorts, smooth linens for wide-leg pants, etc!
4. What is one thing you would love people to know about owning your own brand focusing on upcycling? Are there any common misconceptions potential customers have about upcycling?
Sustainability in fashion is complex and evolving quickly, so I understand why people might have misconceptions. I would encourage people to educate themselves on the basics, question all brands when they call an item ‘sustainable,’ and try to shop secondhand/vintage before new (in every aspect of their life, not just fashion!). Recently, I’ve been shocked how praised ‘deadstock’ has become with no real evidence of sustainability (read more at girloftheearth.com/blogs/more-about-us/deadstock), as well as the blatant misuse of the word vintage (this is defined as OVER 20 YEARS OLD). I also would love to coin a term for designers who upcycle, as our design process is drastically different from traditional fashion designers (we kind of work backwards!).
5. Are there any future projects you want our readers to be aware of?
Ooooh all the styles that we’re working on are top secret but I can say to expect some silhouettes customers have been begging for for years! Stay tuned!!!
click any of the images above to shop some of Ruby’s upcycled mini bags, or her full collection here!